The cuisine continues to evolve, as home cooks riff on local food classics and chefs introduce new techniques and flavors. And as it grows, some cooks are highlighting the role of Native Hawaiian cuisine, context that the feel-good story of local food has often brushed aside. He infuses traditional oxtail soup with the flavors of pho, adding burned ginger, cinnamon and cloves to the broth, which is usually fragrant with dried orange peel and star anise. To Hawaii’s fried chicken canon, alongside mochiko chicken and chile chicken, he presents his own entry: a chicken that’s steamed, then fried, and sprinkled with a powder flavored like sinigang, the sour Filipino pork stew. Despite the laid-back approach many Hawaii residents have toward what makes a dish local, some who grew up dining at Tiffany’s have been critical of Mr. Simeon’s menu revisions.

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Persons: ”, Sheldon Simeon, “ Cook, Simeon Locations: Maui, Wailuku, Hawaii